Common problems

this post if those who are new to the site that may be experiencing problem's and so there is a bit of a list of common things for people to check
there is a search button at the top of the page this will help to track your problem down

4ws/abs light
probably either 4ws ecu needs re-soldering or a abs speed sensor

ecu light -search keywords {ecu AND light}

rusty arches
the curse of the lude

CV joints + boots -search keywords {CV AND joint} {CV AND boot}
so much power to a f/f something has to give


track-rod end's
wheel wobbling is sign of this problem

ignition switch problems
this happened to me and two other ludes i know in person so seems to be common turn the key and start the engine let go of the key and ignition goes off
Honda charged me £150 to fix it but apparently if you can find an accord in a scrapyards about a £5 to fix



[car won't start] -search keywords {dizzy cap AND rotor arm} {main AND relay}
try
a. distributor
b. main relay

I was going to put some inks on for each one but i don't have time right now i will keep adding some more when i get time also if anybody else thinks of anything please add them

Car won't start in hot weather / How to fix your Main Relay
submitted by Schwarzpm

just came across this and thought it might be useful.

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(link updated 05/12/06 - thanks tron)

HTH.





Location of main relay
(submitted by si_vtec)

thats where its located under your dash, where ive expertly ringed it



thats what it looks like out of its grey box





more pics submitted by kawascream

The main relay is located above the drivers side foot well. Lay on your back with your head in the footwell!!

Remove the relay with a 10mm spanner - it's a bit fiddly.





Remove the grey cover and re-solder the connections in the pic below

Loss of engine Oil (this is considered normal on Preludes)

Link here considers one reason why our ludes 'drink' oil.

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Idle Problems

Submitted by 2Lude

idle problems -search keywords {idle AND hunting}
probably the idle air control valve look at the threads below

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Bouncing Idle - FITV (Fast Idle Thermo Valve)

The valve itself is located just under the throttle body. Easiest way to get to it is to remove your intake pipework all the way up to the throttle body to expose the valve. This picture shows the valve at the bottom (you don't need to take your throttle body off )



You can just about get at the three bolts with a spanner, then unclip the coolant hose and whip the valve off.



Take the metal plate off the front of the valve housing to expose the valve.



Then just unscrew the plastic valve retainer with a flat bladed screwdriver to release the valve.



Unclip the spring from the valve and it just comes apart. Give everything a blast with carb cleaner and re-assemble in the reverse of above. Tighten the plastic spool all the way down, then back it off a few turns.

Submitted by RocketPantsBob

also had this prob and it turned out to be a leaking rad, check your rad water level and expansion tank


Submitted by Crunchy_Nutter

As you know not long ago i had a bad idle problem when the engine revs dropped at junctions and traffic lights to nothing and the car was stalling, after playing around and changing IACV the problem was still there and later on i noticed that it was that my throttle cable was too tight knocking off the IACV as the TPS saw the engine was on part load, i sorted this out and the problem went for a while...

Anyway time went on driving on these cobbly welsh roads and my exhaust loosend off at the back and started blowing, suddenly my idle problem was back since then iv fitted a brand new stock honda backbox and had new gaskets and sealent on my exhaust system and the problem has vanished, also a freind of mine who also has a 4g lude had perfect idle until the flexi pipe on the front pipe started blowing, as the hole is getting bigger hes noticed low revs when parking and so on, and now its stalling.

So to those who have blowing exhausts, or a perfect straight through system withno back pressure, or the ecu isnt mapped at all for your mods and have bad or very low idle... get some back pressure

Hope this helps anybody whos been through the same crap as i have!

Knocking Noise from Rear Shock Absorbers

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