4G/5G Oil & Oil Filter Change

(credit to prelude_stealth)
Parts needed:

- 5L of Engine Oil (choose your preferred oil, personally I go for 5W-40 Fully Synthetic)
- Oil Filter (available from Honda, motor factors, if you can afford to stretch a bit, I would go for a Honda filter)
- Sump/Drain Plug copper washer


1. Park the car on a level surface (make sure the car doesn't roll forwards/backwards with the handbrake off)

2. Warm the engine up up to normal temperature (fan comes on at least twice). Turn engine off.

3. Drain the engine oil by removing the sump/drain plug. Engine oil WILL be hot so be careful and get ready to catch the oil with a pan or something simila that will hold at least 5L.

4. Replace the sump/drain plug with the new copper washer. Wipe any excess oil off.

5. Remove the old oil filter by using an appropriate oil filter wrench. I found that the oil filter removal tool available from Halfords (metal band with a tightening knob at the bottom) works a treat as there's not much room behind the engine.

6. Inspect the threads and the rubber seals on the new filter if they're ok/same as the old one. Wipe excess oil off the seat on the engine block. Put a light coat of oil on the rubber seal and the threads of the new filter.

7. Replace the new oil filter and tighten it by hand. (DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN) Wipe any excess oil.

8. Refill with the new engine oil. I found that using exactly 5L of oil brings the oil level nicely up to the MAX (top hole) on the dipstick.

9. This step is optional but I do it anyway. Disconnect the ditributor connectors. Crank the engine a good 3-6 seconds for 2-3 times for the new oil to lubricate the engine. Reconnect the connectors.

10. Start the engine and check for oil leaks.

11. Go drive for a few minutes. Park up and check again for leaks.

Oil Filters

Hamp filter come highly recommendend

(blurb submitted by TaffyLude)

Introducing Japan Honda's aftermarket line of automotive products..."HAMP Synergy".

HAMP Synergy are aftermarket products designed by Honda and are a step up from the "Honda Original Parts" products. Not meant to compete with their racing produts, however, these oil filters are produced by Honda to Honda's usual standards of quality and reliability.

The HAMP filters can be used on most any Honda, but were specifically designed for use in Honda's Japanese range of Type-R and Type-S series cars in mind. Features include a unique release valve that dynamically adjusts to the conditions within the filter to keep the oil flow and pressure constant.

The HAMP oil filter will last longer and filter better than any of the oil filters currently on the market.

The small Hamp filters were originally made for the RSX/DC5-R and EP3, (03 Civic Type-R), but they will also fit all 88-00 Petrol Fuel injected Honda cars.

By the same token, the new small HAMP filters will give about 5 psi more of oil pressure due to its smaller size. There is no loss of filtration or performance with the smaller filter.

Honda Prelude – Fuel Filter

(submitted by TaffyLude)

Before attempting to remove the fuel filter make sure you hold it with appropriate tools as the fuel lines are usually on pretty tight and you risk twisting the bracket off.
It's a simple straightforward job if you have the right good quality spanners as the unions on the fuel lines are usually pretty tight.
It's like changing an oil filter, but you don't need to get under the car to do it - it's located on the passenger side inner wing, just in front of the bulkhead.
It's a metal canister thingy with two pipes coming out of the top.
Just unscrew and remove, but you may have to use a strap wrench because it'll be very tight!
Also you should depressurise the fuel rail first, because otherwise petrol will spray everywhere when you undo it!
Make sure you replace both the copper washers on the "banjo bolt union".
One above and one below.
Once you have undone both fuel pipes there are 2 bolts that secure the filter housing to the car. Undo those and then you will probably have to release a wiring harness clip that hooks onto the filter housing.
Then remove the assembly and swap in the new filter.
There should be three washers supplied with the new filter, 2 big and one small. The small is for the bleed bolt which should be opened first to relieve pressure before disconnecting the fuel filter.

(location pics thanks to indigolemon and tezza26)

Transmission fluid change/refill

(Thanks to Prelude Stealth)

You need:
- 3/8" Drive ratchet
- 17mm socket/spanner
- 3L MTF (Manual Transmission Fluid) available from Honda/Rover/Landrover; alternatively, you can also use 10w-40 Engine Oil (Mineral/Semi Synthetic) (Honda dealerships use this)
- Bit of flexi pipe preferrably with about half an inch inside diameter and about a metre long
- small funnel

1) Make sure the car's warmed up and parked on level ground.

2) Find the drain plug (it's right below the offside [driver's side] driveshaft. it's round with a square bit in it which your 3/8" Drive ratchet will fit onto perfectly).

3) Unbolt the drain plug using your ratchet. Make sure you have an oil pan ready to catch the fluid.

4) When it's all drained, put the drain plug back on nice and tight, use a new washer if it had a washer when you took it off.

5) Find the filler bolt (it's a 17mm bolt to the left of the driver's side driveshaft).

6) Stick your flexi pipe in the filler hole and stick the other end up the engine bay. Using the funnel, fill the transmission with the fluid till it runs out the hole.

7) When the fluid runs out the hole, quickly plug the filler bolt back on (use a new washer if it came with one when you took it off). Tighten it and check for leaks.

Replacing/Bleeding Clutch fluid

(Submitted by prelude_stealth)

a) Reservoir cap off

b) Connect a clear pipe onto the bleed nipple (it's on the clutch slave cylinder), obviously put a jar at the other end of the pipe to catch the brake fluid.

c) Get a friend to jump in the car

d) With an 8mm spanner, tell your friend to press the clutch pedal slowly while you open the bleed nipple with the spanner. Fluid will come out the pipe into the jar.

e) Tell your friend to hold the clutch pedal fully pressed while you close the bleed nipple.

f) Do d) and e) repeatedly while keeping an eye on the clutch fluid reservoir making sure it doesn't go below MIN mark. Top it up with brake/clutch fluid when needed. DO NOT LET IT GO DRY.

g) When you're happy with it (no bubbles coming out of the nipple, brake/clutch fluid coming out is clear), close the nipple and pump the clutch pedal a few times, top up the reservoir if needed.

NOTE: Dipose off the brake fluid properly, it's nasty stuff!

h) Test drive the car on an empty road/carpark to see if you have a good clutch pedal. If it's still spongy, bleed it again.

What condition are your spark plugs in , how is your engine running?

(submitted by mataos)

Spark plugs are the "window" into your engine (your only eyewitness to the combustion chamber), and can be used as a valuable diagnostic tool. Like a patient's thermometer, the spark plug displays symptoms and conditions of the engine's performance. The experienced tuner can analyze these symptoms to track down the root cause of many problems, or to determine air/fuel ratios.
Have a look at this, Tech Info - Spark Plugs Overview.

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Thanks to NGK.


Dizzy Timing

How to check your timing

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EGR Valve Cleaning

(link submitted by kawascream, thanks to TPC, Gavster)

The EGR valve works by recirculating a 5-10% of an engine's exhaust gas back to the engine cylinders. Intermixing the incoming air with recirculated exhaust gas in a specific amount dilutes the mix with inert gas which slows the combustion, and lowers peak engine temperatures, resulting in more power and less hesitation under load.



If it is open when it is not supposed to be open - it can act like one monster vacuum leak and the engine will idle really roughly, stall or hesitate. If it doesn't open when it is supposed to open you experience detonation since the combustion chamber temperature will be higher than normal resulting in lack of power and response.

Cleaning the EGR valve can help fix/improve rough idling, fluctuating idle, acceleration hesitation, and bad fuel economy. Most importantly it will resolve MIL/CEL code 80 / PO401: Exhaust Gas Recirculation - Insufficient flow detected.

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EGR Port cleaning
(links submitted by TaffyLude)

I'm not sure if the port plugs can be re-used or not, but there's a bit of info on them

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and

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EGR Valve Removal ? (submitted by Pughy)

Basically EGR is used to reduce the NOx emissions whilst at part load, and it also decreases your pumping losses, so you get slightly better fuel economy.

When at high/full load EGR is turned off as it could cause the engine to detonate severely if used.
Basically if you remove EGR you will probably see no performance advantage, and probably not much difference in your fuel economy either, and if you disconnect the plug it should flag check engine as its classed as a emission component.

CAUTION: When you run EGR you advance the ignition due to the burn rates being slower, therefore if you blank the valve, i.e. no EGR flowing but leave it plugged in so the ECU thinks its flowing, you could run into detonation problems.

O2 / Lambda Sensor

(links from YellaLude and gavster)

Suppliers Honda or

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There is some skepticism whether after market o2 sensors last as long or perform as well as OEM.

How they work/why they fail
(Thanks to Taffylude)

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Location
Prelude O2 sensor is located next to the flexi pipe, just before the cat on the exhaust pipe.


text below taken from

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What they do
A lambda sensor is an oxygen sensor that fits into the exhaust system. Its purpose is to send a voltage signal to the ECU relevant to the oxygen content of the exhaust gasses. The ECU uses this information to continually adjust the engine’s fuelling requirements.

Symptoms of failure
MOT emissions failure, high emissions, excessive fuel consumption and Cat failure are all symptoms that can be associated with Lambda sensor failure. Possible illumination of the vehicle’s”check engine” lamp on the dash board. The Lambda sensor has a limited service life and its operation deteriorates over a period of time. The response time of the sensor is usually a good measure of the Lambda’s condition and this should be regularly checked as part of the vehicle’s service routine.

Maintenance
No maintenance of the Lambda sensor is required and there are no internally serviceable parts. Should the sensor’s operation deteriorate then it should be considered to have reached the end of its serviceable life, cleaning the sensor tip will not rejuvenate it. It is important that the engine management system and the vehicle’s emissions be regularly serviced and checked. For more information regarding this, please consult your vehicle owner’s manual.

Engine Coolant Replacement/Bleeding

thanks to luda_mike

2 thirds down page 1 in this thread

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VTEC Solenoid Cleaning

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Thermostat Testing Procedure

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Diagnosing Honda EGR Systems

Some useful information on the EGR system

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Diagnosing Honda EGR Systems

by Wayne Pasicnyck “When diagnosing a Honda EGR system it is always good to remember the basics...”

With Honda's PGM-FI fuel injection, it is now possible to monitor EGR valve lifts. If the ECM does not see the EGR lift during expected EGR operation, it will turn on the “Check Engine” light for code 12 on pre-OBD-II vehicles. The lift values are programmed into the ECM for the different engine loads and drive cycles. When diagnosing a Honda EGR system it is always good to remember the basics - so let's look at the basics of code 12.

A lift sensor on top of the EGR valve works just like a TPS sensor. There are three wires: a signal wire (yellow or white/blue) that goes back to the ECM, a 5-volt reference wire and a ground wire. With the EGR valve closed, the voltage should be about 1.2 volts. Normally anything more than 1.4 volts will set the light because the ECM thinks the EGR valve is open when it should not be. The voltage will increase as the valve opens. The ECM watches the voltage and then compares it to the predetermined values set in the programming of the ECM. The EGR is lifted by engine vacuum and the ECM has a solenoid it grounds when it commands EGR operation. The ECM will ground this solenoid when it sees the correct engine temperature, correct MAP sensor voltage, and throttle position sensor voltage. With the solenoid, the constant vacuum control (CVC) valve controls a constant vacuum for EGR operation. This valve takes the manifold vacuum signal and puts it to a constant 8 to 10 inches. Without a constant vacuum signal, EGR operation would be erratic. The EGR solenoid and the CVC valve location varies by model, but are often found in the black emission boxes under the hood on the fire wall. To locate, use a component locator or just follow the vacuum line.

Testing for a code 12 is not difficult if you read what the EGR lift sensor is doing in relation to engine operation. The most important thing to remember is that when the engine control unit grounds the solenoid, the valve should have its full vacuum signal within one second. A slow or delayed vacuum signal or no signal will set a code 12. If it is a slow or low vacuum signal, it will not lift the valve fast enough or far enough and the code will set. If the solenoid and the system check out at the time of testing, the next step is to manually ground the solenoid up to 20 times to see if it fails once during this test. As it heats up with operation, it may fail and will not allow the vacuum signal to go to the EGR valve.

The ECM grounds the solenoid for EGR operation by inputs from the MAP sensor, the sensors in the distributor, the throttle position sensor, and the coolant sensor. If the solenoid is not being turned on at all, check the ground wire from the solenoid all the way to the ECM. It is also important to verify lift sensor voltage all the way back to the ECM.

Note: When there is an EGR problem and the ECM senses that problem, it stops grounding the solenoid and stops EGR operation. Make sure the code is cleared from the ECM so it will try to operate the EGR solenoid.

When diagnosing Honda driveability problems, always check the EGR system. Block off the vacuum to see if the problem goes away. Usually the valve is not the problem - often it is a lean run condition or an EGR distribution problem with EGR going to one or two cylinders, rather than all four.

Certain 1990-93 Accords experience a misfire condition or hesitation warm at 1500 to 2000 rpm. When vacuum is removed from the EGR valve, the misfire or hesitation goes away. This is usually caused by plugged EGR ports in the intake manifold.

To correct, remove the brass plugs in the intake manifold and clean out the carbon. Honda offers a kit with replacement plugs so removal or replacement of the intake manifold will not be required.

Crankshaft Pulley & Bolt

Thanks to Taffylude

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Leakdown Test Procedure

Thanks to prelude_stealth

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Fast Idle Thermo Valve (FITV) Adjustment

Thanks to cford

Here's a pic to show how to adjust the fast idle when cold. The blanking plate has been removed to get at the valve itself.

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Experimenting by screwing and unscrewing the plastic valve body gives me the rule of thumb that one complete revolution = 300 rpm (ish).

1. Fully screwed in - cold idle at 500 - 700, engine will cut out at junctions until warmish.

2. Unscrew 3 complete revolutions - cold idle at 1600 rpm, too fast

3. Unscew 2 complete revolutions - cold idle at 1200 rpm

Adjusting the valve clearances on the H22 engine.

Thanks to DrLinkin

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