SSSOOOOOOOOOOOOoooo many pictures. Why????

im impressed ratty.

people i know think im mad to go as far as i do with instal's and im only playing in comparison. i reckon you have quite a bit of time handy at the moment thou

i dont agree with the loss of rear speakers but each to his own. i like the kick and the lower mid boost but then i fiddle with the levels to compensate for the loss of stage.

i look forward to hearing it at the shows next year mate. ill have mine finished then so it will be a good comparison.

Wow, you're really going to town on this, i'm impressed

What, how much and where is that deadening mat stuff, might get some for my parcel shelf, maybe a bit on the roof.

Good to see you totally doused the rear arch insides with the Dynax, make sure you've cleaned out the outsides as well, the design, at last on the 4g, seems to harbour dirt as it tries to escape whilst under general road use in the wet i've found.

All major sound deadening is now done. I will apply the spectrum arounnd the sub box once done. Door will be sorted once sealed and baffles sorted and same with kicks. The bootlid will be deadened after iv sorted the rust on it.










As you can see some of the pics show small amounts of deadening on some panels but that small amount has made a massive difference. Not panels resonate like they used to.

So after i have opinions from people on talkaudio thread regarding boot install layout i can get started on cabling, carpet underlay deadening and interior back in. They sort the boot install and get that installed and then move on to doors and get the midbass sorted then its onto aiming/positions of the tweets/mids. Oh and headunit needs installing properly.

So layouts....this helps to layout everything so you can get all cable lengths to the exact size. Planning is key. Anticipate install issues etc. Really think ahead.

Heat dissipation is what i want to achieve as a total potention power output of 1370w will create some heat. Cant believe im having 1080w on my front end alone. But headroom is needed.

I have 2 options for my layout.


Option 1





Please ignore the tape, string and large cables as they are simply holding the 3 amps in place on the rear or the rear seats. The rear seats fold down.

Will the 3 amps mounted
on the back seats be ok, cooling/heat wise. They will be powering the tweets, midrange and sub. The 4 channel for the midbass. I do like this way and the design will look coherent.



Option 2






Sub could go other side but the jack sit there.


I need a layout so i can start applying the cables to the correct length.

I need bootspace, i want a stock looking install with some show The amps on the seat wont be covered to aid cooling except for the floor where acoustic cloth tc will be covering them so they can still breath and be protected with objects in the boot. Same with sub and crossover too.


PS...yes that is a custom Genesis Series 3 4 channel amp. Its rare i hear. :love:
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I think it's great you gutted the *whole* interior, would of been nice to do that to mine as well.

Are those sheets in the last pics now spare?


No idea about the sound stuff, seems like a lot of weight to add for a lot of noise, but the kit looks nice
The jack can be wrapped up and put with the spare wheel.... but you don't have space for that

Spectacular Ratty I would love to do this, even just to remove any small rattles, but its the time/space/and lack of a driveable car that would stop someone.

Those sheets of deadening are yet to go in. Bootlid, kick panal and now i have decided to go with option 2 so i need to move the sub to either side of the boot and that means apply more deadening to either side.

Would like the sub to go on the left passengers side as the battery is on the other side at the front. Will see about moving the jack and cutting out the metal that holds it there.

Uh, sorry, by sound stuff, i meant the audio equipment.

right

Top work matey!

Brilliant Ratty..

Hogh
That's a crazy project I'm keeping my fingers crossed and cant wait to see it done. I am a kind of fanatic as well but not that bad like you
Are you doing it to start in soundoff competition or just for yours ears pleasure??
Well done Ratty
BTW if you want to use your trunk put the speaker on the side I had the same problem but finally I've mounted amp in trunk floor and kicked out the JL sub completely.

Cheers. Sorry if pics dont work Tinypic is rubbish. They should eventually work.

Got some more done today since the weather was good although ran into some problems.

So i decided to cut out some baffles for the L6. Never used a route before so i rekon these turned out ok for 1st time.



My custom Jig.




Here is the hole im dealing with. Now its quite small. Around 5.5" in diameter. Notice the window rails are right behind it and the metal beams are attached to the metal im mounting on too.


The L6 dont even fit into the hole. The spider chassis is in the way and also the magnets will hit the window rails behind if they do fit through.



Now here is my 18mm baffle mounted with the existing 12mm baffles. The magnet is around 1mm clear of the window rails but the spider and pos/neg terminals still touch ever so slightly.


Now 1st of all. Would the 28mm baffle be ok? I dont want to create a tunnel but this is my old option.

Also how could i cut the metal out to make a larger hole.
I tried a hack saw but its awkward, slow and i can only cut down not round. I cut down 3cm apart and then hammered the metal away so it bends back. This worked but again took ages.

Cannot afford a mini angle grinder.
I have this.

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Would this work with either Resin, diamond or steeel cutting discs?
Or get a better hacksaw with a thin blade and slim frame so i can cut the circle out?