just collecting the last few little bits ready for my install so i thought id see how all the amps will fit.

im amping everything independently and i want a cap in there so this will be adding plenty weight to the boot lol...





the sub is a ported 12'' P.A sub iv had for years. its warmth and musicality far out weigh its lack of asthetic grace it will hold 20Hz at a sickening volume for as long as you want lol... im a P.A. junie and car subs always sound so 'one note' to me.

its powered from the JL audio with 400w/rms

the fronts will be powered by the big rockford fosgate @200w/per chan/rms

the rears from the smaller fosgate @ 160w/per chan/rms

the cap will be inline after the fuse (not pictured as fitted) and the whole lot will be run off my sony head. im considering putting in the natty little panasonic graphic iv got for the fronts but cant decide if i wanna start messing with the interior.

the sub is ABS and has ridges in it so i can carve out runners for the cables. this might actually be a neat install for me. you never know

the amps will be facing the rear seats and all have a good 6'' of free space and i wont be hammering it, i just want warm clarity. front speakers arrived today so next week is the planned start.


ill be using 2x 311 strand ofc speaker cable on the fronts (thats 622 strands each speaker

2x311 strand ofc on the rears

4x 311 strand ofc on the bass

all the signal cables are triple shielded and center locked.

power will be 4AWG from the battery splitting to 8AWG. with the placement of the power splitters and the sides the power inputs are on the amps i dont see any cable run being more than 18'' from the cap or the main feed.

its gonna be a bastard with all the sound proofing but im hoping for good results for the cash spent.

Capacitor....... tut tut. Will do nothing but add more strain.

What would be better is to upgrade from 4awg to 0awg and then into a dizzy block and 4awg to each amp. Then do the big 3, this should give a constant 14.4v and keep charging to an absolute optimum.
The capacitor will obviously give you some headroom in power when the sub requires but its just another but of stain that the current has to deal with. Although im sure you will have no problems. Usually 1000W RMS on the sub causes problems.

But all said it should sound powerful. Some nice equipment and that Type S is gunna sag.

i would use the bigger 0AWG but iv got a shed load of 4AWG and 8AWG that i kinda inherited. i fancy using that rather than forking out for 4 meters of 0AWG

this was why i thought id use the cap as a little head room, just incase.

whats wrong with them? teach me

cheers ratty.

whats the big 3?

I agree with Ratty on this one, I've been reading the stuff about caps too and everything I've been told has said to avoid them.

I run 2AWG cable from battery to trunk with the distribution block then 4AWG to each of my main amps, and 10AWG to my diddy amp.


Not sure what Ratty means by the big 3, but what I have found that improves my system massively is a line driver. I have one of these in the build in my car and after wiring it up yesterday, I was totally blown away, it makes such an improvement. But I am running 3 amps for the speakers

This is what I have:

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The big 3 is the electrical charging system upgrade.
- Battery to chassis cable (0Awg)
- Engine to Chassis cable (0Awg)
- Alternator to battery + cable (0Awg)

Difference with the Prelude is the alt to battery + goes behind the engine and splits to all ancilleries like fuel injection etc etc, it then goes into the under hood fuse box. Another cable goes from the fuse box to the battery +. Then the battery + goes to the starter motor.
Its worth upgrading all these major cables. But with the alt to battery + you just ADD another wire direct.
Doing this will give a constant 14.4v whilst running and will keep the chargin system to an absolute optimum. It will stop dimming and will give more power to amps and weather its a placebo or not some say a slight improvement it engine response.

Here was the thread i helped with on Prelude power.

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What i would change it to get rid of the stock wire.

IMO this should be the 1st upgrade to any largish system.

well iv chucked the cap....

so if i lust put more copper between the alt and the battery ill get a better power flow and a better volt line? cool ill do that instead.

iv used 4awg on the bass and the big fosgate (that was the correct size for the hole) and 8awg on the small one. im just gonna have a look for some 0awg and cr~p my pants at the cost im sure lol...

would i be able to trace under the car and do the alternator with 5m?

£14 per meter? jog on springs to mind.

i cant see me drawing more than 1200w peak even when hammered so do i really need cable designed for 3000w rms? 4awg is so much cheaper and easier to use

i wont be planking it all the time and i cant take the super loud now anyway. i just want to feel immersed.

ill carry on looking for a better price.

any links?

right, well. having looked at what iv got, and despite agreeing with your advice guys im gonna have to go with 4awg as thats what iv got to go into my dizzy blocks.

ill be fusing at the battery.

im using this kit because its what iv got so its make do really.

iv sorted the power cable and generally fit out the sub as an amp rack

work in progress:











iv made sure the controls for the front and rear amps are easy to reach and use and the wire went down very well. its all pretty neat so far

im not to worried about fires or dimming to be honest as im really not gonna batter it. what i want is plenty of head room for the volumes i listen at. i think, with all the sound deadening work im gonna do i will be happy.


next is fabricate some mdf baffles for front and rear and its action stations at the ready for a nice couple of days weather.


updates to come....

Jee zus, that looks industrial Nice work James, I want to hear it ripping at the next meet.