I’m starting this thread in order to try and advise people on how best to deal with the rust on their cars.

Although Bilt-Hamber aren't the only manufacturers in this field, from my investigations they appear to be the most suitable, if not the best, besides, they’re a British company going from strength to strength

What I’d like to do is introduce some of their main products for dealing with rust and then protecting against it. I’ll copy some brief information about them from their site and then give my take on each one and try and suggest where it would be useful for our cars.

Any questions should be asked in here and if you have pictures of your rust issue, post them up and myself and Bilt-Hamber can help out and suggest the best course of action

If anyone wishes to purchase the Bilt-Hamber products, they can do so from the website, I’m working on securing a PUK discount for our members here

Remember, seeing a spot of rust coming through the paint means it’s already worse underneath. You cannot “wait until the summer and get a bodyshop to look at it”
Rust spreads exponentially and needs treating ASAP.
You don’t have to get it perfect when you can’t afford the time or the money, or both But if you can quickly, easily and cheaply address the rust spread issue, you will stop it looking bad and stop the rust becoming a permanent and very expensive problem later on.

Take a look at the following, where possible I have included pictures showing the results of tests and/or actual use by people like us, restoring and/or maintaining their pride and joy.

Deox-C (Rust Remover)
Deox-C is a crystalline, 100% active corrosion removal product formulated for the removal of corrosion products from steel, stainless steel and most ferrous materials. This product when dissolved in tap water, produces a bath of powerful rust removing liquid.

Deox-Gel (Rust Remover)
Deox-Gel is a viscous, highly thixotropic, rust remover, designed for corrosion removal on surfaces or objects too large to submerge in a bath of Deox-C. Along with the viscosity builders and preservatives, the active agents in Deox-Gel are harmless, non-toxic and biodegradable.




Here’s the Deox-C removing the rust on a manifold;







Here is the Deox Gel on a piece of almost pure rust;









Here's the Deox Gel being used on a Nissan hub piece;




Wrapping the plastic bag round it just helps keep the moisture in over the duration it will take to clean up.


Scrape this mess off with a nylon brush or something similar.




Once all cleaned off it will be ready to paint/protect and go back on the car.


The primered part before being final coated.




These are particularly useful products, if you want to clean up some of the engine parts, like the radiator or alternator brackets, you can put them in a bath of the Deox C, or if you want to treat your rusted arches or clean up the suspension arms, you can apply the Deox Gel and tape a plastic bag over them.

"Bilt-Hamber's Deox-Gel is just the job. Simply ladle the gooey almost apple-sauce like compound onto the effected area and ensure there is always a thickness of at least 3mm present.
...after between 12 and 48 hours simply wash the remnants of the gel away with water and a stiff bristled brush to be left with perfectly clean steel."
Car Mechanics, August 2005

That's about as easy as it gets, i like products that work like that, but that's just because i'm a bit lazy


For suspension, coilovers and other moving parts under the arches, you'd use something like WD40, problem is, it doesn't last too long and isn't a very specific product for this.


Ferrosol
Ferrosol is a high quality lubricant designed to penetrate close tolerances, free rusted together parts, displace water, restore electrical circuits and provide corrosion protection. Ferrosol contains unique molecules which, when subject to friction, bond electrochemically to metal surfaces providing an effective barrier to wear, independent laboratory tests confirm Ferrosol's ability to massively outperform competing products.

So significant is Ferrosol's anti-wear ability that the product is ideal for use in drilling, tapping and reaming where its use will prolong tool life.




There are independent laboratory tests available on the BH website with this and another leading brand product. BH will not reveal the identity of the other product, but if you were a company bringing out a new product in this category, you'd aim for the market leader. In my investigation and other sources across the web, it would appear the competing product is that well known blue can with the yellow band on it.
To give you an idea of how successful Ferrosol was in the test, it looks to be about 4 times more effective

Ferrosol is flexible, it gets in all the nooks and crannies and it actively removes moisture and keeps it at bay, perfect for the moving suspension parts, particularly the threads on coilovers.

I'm now going to mention Waxoyl, by Hammerite, we should all be using a rust preventing cavity sealer for inside the sill sections of the Prelude and up under the arches, protecting behind the front arch liners and also on the back arches to stop dirt and water staying there and rusting through.

I checked out Bilt Hamber Dynax S-50, they cavity protector and sealer. Remember, despite what i'm saying here, i'm in no rush to go and buy things i've already got, like rust removers, WD40 and Waxoyl, that's a waste of money and those products are very old and have proven track records for a *very* long time.

So why are people plugging the BH stuff? During my investigations to find out what Bilt Hamber were up to, i not only discovered that the Dynax S-50 was better, in fact a *lot* better, but i also discovered that Waxoyl was actually pretty crap!

This concerns me as i've used a lot of it and assume it works very well, truth is, it does work, but not very well. Normally when i see these things, it's, product A works fine, but this new product B works better. In this case it turned out that product A works a lot worse than i thought and product B works quite a bit better than i thought A did.

I came across a test someone did on another car forum and thought it would be quite good to show up here.

The two steel plates that are used in his test;


The two plates covered in Dynax S-50 on the left and Waxoyl on the right. Notice the circled parts, that's where his thumb prints were after picking them up to move them outside, the S-50 has healed but the Waxoyl has worn off and stayed that way.



"Hmmmm interesting, it rained last night but stopped a few hours ago
Left dynax S-50, middle waxoyl, right untreated"




Another quote from the same guy in the thread;
"I’m afraid there’s a lot of talked about wax injection products, corrosion removers, paints that remove rust, sealant, anti rust this and protectant that. I have used stone chip in the past and it was about as good as slapping a coat of emulsion on. There are professionals who make a living out of waxoyling cars but I have always had my doubts about it. I posted this some time ago on SXOC

What was interesting is that after it had stopped raining for a few hours, the waxoyl covered plate still had a puddle of water on it, whereas the dynax S-50 coated plate was bone dry."

"Pics say it all really. Left is Dynax S-50 Right is Waxoyl. Bear in mind its only 17 days ago I started this test.


"Pic of the back of the plates to show how much corrosion I managed to achieve Again left is Dynax."




"The plates a month on."



"Well it's 6 weeks ago I started the test and decided to strip the waxy stuff off with solvent to see what was behind. The Dynax is a dark brown and could be hiding corrosion behind it."



"TBH I thought it would take a lot longer but it just shows how aggressive road salt is The salt was in a jug topped up with water, I only poured the solution on the plates.

The guy just left them outside in the rain and all sorts, he also got a jug and half filled it with road salt and mixed it with water, he kept pouring this over the plates every so often, it's horrible stuff, but it's out on our roads and it sticks to the cars more from the road as it's mixed with molasses these days.

is the deox stuff harmful to rubber or bearings?

I'm nearly 100% certain it's fine on bearings, though the process would mean you should re-grease them afterwards.

I'm not sure on the rubber, hopefully Al will be along shortly to advise

Blummin 'eck MaXX, even I'd forgotten about those 2 user trials!

The bearing one was a Nissan, right.. in fact, the Dynax one may have been too? That was one helluva resto if I remember correctly.

You got a link to your website where we can buy it?
Looks awsome, will maybe try some out when refurbing my calipers

Nice one madmaxx....you should put all your rust prevention you did on your Lude before it went to the body shop....Really helpfull.

i need some for a akward bit of rust by my windscreen

where can we buy?

We can buy directly from the Bilt Hamber website (www.bilthamber.com) but i'm hoping Al comes back with a possible PUK discount for us

Ok i will get images up once iv fully cleaned the car but i have rust on the edges of the bottom of the bootlid and near the spoiler at the top. Its spreading and its visable contrasting against the paint work.

Now what can i do to treat it and not damage the paintwork. I do intend to get it sorted and resprayed along with the rear bumper in summer time. Also does it sound to late and it a new boot lid in order. Was considering carbon fibre but IMO its not worth the £400 and i would want it spraying white anyway.

Don't worry about the paint, all rust work requires paint to be taken back to reveal clean metal.

Use a cavity wax such as the Dynax S-50 to spray inside the boot skin as i had rust in there that had gone through from the badge holes.

You should post pics of the rust so we can recommend what to do with the rest, but expect to use a screwdriver or scraper to scrape the lose paint/rust away first, don't be scared

nice work Dave, you have way too much tim on your hands will have to get me some of this when I clean up my chassis, arces and sills.

would like to spray the inside of the chassis on my lude.

I would, well, i did, the bodyshop heated up and sprayed in a load of waxoyl after they did the car, did the rear arches too.

Only problem is, i just assumed waxoyl was the best, it's actualyl quite poor, so i'm awaiting my BH delivery with some Dynax S-50 instead

Bri, take off the side skirts, that reveals all the holes up into the box section sills, they get nasty rusty,use some de-ruster on the bits you can see, then spray liberally with the Dynax or your choice or cavity wax.
If you get the Dynax, it comes with an extension pipe and a 360 degree head to spray inside nicely