Clutch Master Cylinder Removal & Refitting (inc. bleeding)

(submitted by prelude_stealth)


Reasons for replacement:
- Squeaking when pressing the clutch pedal
- Leak under the carpet coming from the top of clutch pedal

What you need:
- Clutch Master Cylinder (gasket should be included when you buy a cylinder)
- Ratchet & deep socket set
- Set of spanner
- Pair of long nose pliers & cutters
- Split pin/Cotter pin
- Clutch/Brake Fluid 4.1/5.1 DOT
- Bleeding kit or a friend to help when bleeding


NOTE: In case you don't know where the clutch master cylinder is, it's a cylinder bolted onto the car's firewall with a rod extending into the inside of the car and connected to your clutch pedal.


1. Disconnect the clutch pipe (metal pipe w/ bends and kinks) & the clutch reservoir hose (flexible braided pipe) from the master cylinder. Brake fluid WILL drip so be ready to catch it with a cloth. Be careful not to bend the clutch pipe

DO NOT get brake fluid onto the car's paintwork! In case it does, wipe it off as quickly as possible.

2. This is the hardest part. You now need to get the split pin off the pedal pin which holds the rod to the clutch pedal. You might find it is a royal pain in the bum, but just take your time and you'll eventually get it off.

3. Now that the pedal is free to move and disconnected from the cylinder, unbolt the clutch master cylinder from the firewall. There's only two bolts, 10/12mm (don't remember which one but defo one of the two), you need a deep socket for this.

If you don't have one like me when I did mine at the time, just attach the socket to the ratchet halfway, just so you get extra clearance, you'll understand when you come across it.

4. When it's finally unbolted, be careful not to twist the end bit which adjusts the length of the rod. Get the new cylinder and make sure the rod is more or less the same rod length as the new one, if it's not, rotate the bracket of the new cylinder till they both match.

5. Take the old cylinder off, put the new one in. Don't forget to put the new gasket between the firewall and the cylinder. If it doesn't come with a new one, just re-use the old gasket.

6. Bolt the cylinder onto the firewall.

7. Connect the pedal pin and put a new split pin. Do not skip this or you might find yourself without a clutch pedal in the middle of a drive.

8. Connect the clutch pipe and the reservoir pipe.

9. Bleed the clutch fluid through the slave cylinder.

NOTE:
In case you don't know how to bleed the clutch fluid:

a) Reservoir cap off

b) Connect a clear pipe onto the bleed nipple (it's on the clutch slave cylinder), obviously put a jar at the other end of the pipe to catch the brake fluid.

c) Get a friend to jump in the car

d) With an 8mm spanner, tell your friend to press the clutch pedal slowly while you open the bleed nipple with the spanner. Fluid will come out the pipe into the jar.

e) Tell your friend to hold the clutch pedal fully pressed while you close the bleed nipple.

f) Do d) and e) repeatedly while keeping an eye on the clutch fluid reservoir making sure it doesn't go below MIN mark. Top it up with brake/clutch fluid when needed. DO NOT LET IT GO DRY.

g) When you're happy with it (no bubbles coming out of the nipple, brake/clutch fluid coming out is clear), close the nipple and pump the clutch pedal a few times, top up the reservoir if needed.

NOTE: Dipose off the brake fluid properly, it's nasty stuff!

10) Test drive the car on an empty road/carpark to see if you have a good clutch pedal. If it's still spongy, bleed it again.

All done


Thanks to Prelude_stealth

Clutch Replacement

(link submitted by TaffyLude)


The pictures are from a LHD lude, but gives you the general idea.

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4th gen Auto to Manual Transmission Conversion

(submitted by Taffylude)

Parts List

Transmission
Flywheel
Clutch assembly
Slave cylinder
Clutch master cylinder
All lines and dampener from master to slave cylinder
Includes--
1: line from master cylinder to dampener
2: dampener, bracket and bolts to hold to fender
3: rubber line from dampener to adapter on transmission
4: adapter and bolt to hold to transmission
5: line from adapter to slave cylinder
6: bolt that holds rubber line to adapter(banjo-bolt)
Starter for manual tranny
Drivers side CV shaft and intermediate shaft
Transmission mount and bracket
Speedometer sensor (salvage yard may leave it on the tranny)
Shifter cables, holding clips, clevis pins and cotter pins
Shifter cable bracket for tranny (salvage yard may leave it on the tranny)
Shifter assembly
Shifter boot assembly and shift knob
Clutch pedal assembly
Both switches for clutch and their plug-in connectors
Brake and gas pedal assembly
30 Amp Relay

Bolts Needed

Transmission bolt that goes through starter and bolt below it(the two longest bolts)
Flywheel bolts
Pressure plate bolts
Slave cylinder bolts
Intermediate shaft hanger bolts
Transmission shifter bracket bolts

Step-by-Step

To begin, disconnect the battery and disable the driver's side and passenger side (if equipped) airbags.
To do this, unplug the airbag wiring harness located behind a panel on the bottom side of the steering wheel and behind the glovebox for passenger airbag equipped cars. Connect the harness to the red disable plug beside it.

Remove the battery, battery platform and intake tubing. Raise the car and remove both front wheels.
Drain the transmission fluid and take out both CV shafts. To remove the shafts, take off the axle nuts and disconnect the lower control arms. Lightly bump the shafts with a rubber mallet to extract them from the wheel bearing assembly. Using a prybar, pry the shafts out of the transmission. Remove the passenger side torsion bar to give adequate clearance to remove the tranny. Also, remove the center beam from under the motor. Next, take off the flywheel cover and remove the bolts holding the torque converter to the flywheel. Take off the shifter cable cover and disconnect the cable. At this time, unbolt the firewall side of the transmission by removing the bottom three of the four bolts that are located on the motor side of the tranny. Be sure to leave the top bolt in to support the motor.

From the top side, disconnect all four of the wiring connectors from the transmission and remove the starter. Remove the transmission throttle control cable and its bracket from the throttle body. Unbolt the transmission cooler lines and remove. Support the transmission with a jack and remove the mount and brackets located on the rear of the tranny. Remove the solenoids on the front of tranny and unbolt the speedometer sensor and lay aside. Remove the remaining bolts connecting the tranny to the motor and pry them apart. Rotate the transmission about 30 degrees clockwise for easier removal, and lower it from the engine bay.

Inside the car, remove the passenger side kick panel, disconnect and remove the Transmission Control Module. Take out the center console and remove the radio. Disconnect the shifter cable, unplug the connections and remove the shifter assembly. Replace the brake/gas pedal assembly with the manual brake/gas pedal assembly. Take out the plate that covers the opening for the clutch master cylinder which is located to the left of the steering column on the firewall. Install the clutch pedal assembly and clutch master cylinder. You must remove the Interlock Control Module (which is no longer needed) in order to mount the clutch pedal assembly.

At this time you can do the necessary wiring changes. Cut open the transmission wiring harness. Cut off both counter shaft speed sensor
connectors, the torque lock-up connector, and up/down shift connector. Leave the torque lock-up wires (yellow and green/black) exposed and re-tape the harness. These wires will be hooked up to the reverse light switch on the transmission later. In the passenger side kick panel, seperate the red/white and white/black wires from the connector that went to the Transmission Control Module. Extend these wires to the auto shifter harness and hook them to the yellow and green/black wires. Connect the red/white wire to the yellow and the white/black wire to the green/black for the reverse lights. Re-install passenger side kick panel. Unplug both clutch switch connectors from the assembly. Connect both solid black wires together, extend them and connect to the black wire in the shifter harness. Extend the black/pink wire and connect to the pink wire in the shifter harness. Extend the black/green wire to the shifter harness and install a female spade connector to the end of it. Connect this wire to terminal 86 on a 30amp relay. Cut the connector off of the big black/white and black/red wires that are beside the shifter harness. Install a female spade to the end of the black/red wire and hook it to terminal 87 on the relay. Install a female spade to the end of the black/white wire and add a 6 inch section of wire in with it. Connect the black/white wire to terminal 30 on the relay. Install a female spade on the 6 inch section of wire and connect to terminal 85 on the relay.

Install the manual shifter assembly with the shift knob removed. Remove the front heat shield from the underside of the car. Take the two bolts out retaining the auto shifter cable and slide the cable out of the car.

Slide the manual cable assembly through the opening and bolt into place. Re-install the heat shield. Inside, connect the cables to the shifter with the retaining clips and pins. Slide the shifter boot into the holding channel on the center console and secure with screws in the factory supplied holes. Re-install the radio and the center console, screw the shift knob onto the shifter, and slide the shifter boot ring(small chrome piece) up until it snaps into place.

Bolt the clutch dampener onto the passenger side structural beam behind the transmission mounting bracket.

Install the clutch fluid line from the clutch master cylinder to the dampener(unbolting some of the existing lines on the firewall makes this easier). Mount the clutch master cylinder resevoir onto the existing bracket beside the brake master cylinder. Now, replace the automatic flywheel with the manual one and install the pilot bearing.

Using a clutch lineup tool to center the clutch disc, install the clutch and pressure plate. If not already on the transmission, install the clutch line adaptor, slave cylinder, the line from the clutch line adaptor to the slave cylinder, and the speedometer sensor. Install the throwout bearing and lift the transmission into the engine bay.

Be sure to adequately lube the throwout bearing before installing. Align the splines on the transmission input shaft and the clutch disc and

slide the shaft into the disc until the tranny housing is flush with the engine then install all of the transmission mounting bolts. Install the rubber clutch line from the dampener to the adaptor on the transmission. Install the rear tranny mount and brackets. Disconnect the hoses and the wiring connector going to the speed sensor for the automatic tranny and hook them to the speed sensor on the manual tranny. You will need to do this as quickly as possible because power steering fluid will leak while the hoses are disconnected. Connect the shifter cables to the tranny with the retaining clips and cotter pins and then install the starter. Now, plug the reverse light switch on the tranny into the wiring made for it earlier. Install the passenger side CV shaft, reconnect the lower control arm, and torsion rod. On the driver's side, install the intermediate shaft, and bolt the shaft support to the engine block. Then, install the driver's side CV shaft and lower control arm. Drain any remaining oil from the transmission and replace with new oil( I recommend Redline MTL). Replace the wheels and lower the car. Re-install the battery platform and intake tubing.

Bleed the clutch. Hookup the airbag(s) and re-install the battery .

Short Shifter Installation

Masta_Cutz

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Shadowcat

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Automatic Gearbox Error Code's

(Thanks to 2lude)

taken straight from the service book

Automatic error code's

FAULT CODE IDENTIFICATION
Code (1) Light (2) Probable
Number Condition (3) Cause (4) (5) Symptom

1 ........ Blinks ... Defective Lock-Up .... Lock-Up Clutch
Control Solenoid "A" Does Not Engage
Or Remains
Engaged, Unstable
Idle Speed

2 ........ Blinks ... Defective Lock-Up .... Lock-Up Clutch
Control Solenoid "B" .. Does Not Engage

3 ...... Blinks Or .. Defective Throttle ... Lock-Up Clutch
Remains Off Position Sensor Does Not Engage

4 ........ Blinks ... Defective Vehicle Speed Sensor .... Lock-Up Clutch
Speed Sensor Does Not Engage

5 ........ Blinks ... Defective A/T Gear .... Lock-Up Clutch
Position Switch Does Not Engage,
Fails To Shift Other
Than 2nd-4th Gears

6 ......... Off .... Defective A/T Gear .... Lock-Up Clutch
Position Switch Does Not Engage,
Lock-Up Clutch
Engages & Disengages
Fails To Shift Other
Than 2nd-4th Gears

7 ........ Blinks .. Defective Shift .... Fails To Upshift,
Control Solenoid "A" Remains In 4th Gear

8 ........ Blinks .. Defective Shift ....... Remains In 1st
Or 4th, Control
Solenoid "B"

9 ........ Blinks .... Defective ........... Lock-Up Clutch
Countershaft Does Not Engage
Speed Sensor

10 ....... Blinks .. Defective Engine ...... Lock-Up Clutch
Coolant Temp. Sensor Does Not Engage

11 ........ Off .. Defective Ignition ...... Lock-Up Clutch
AUTO TRANS DIAGNOSIS Coil (Ignitor) Does Not Engage

14 ........ Off .... Shorted Or Open ...... Transaxle Jerks
Wire Between Hard When Shifting
TCM Terminal
D16 & ECM, Faulty ECM

15 (6) .... Off .. Defective Mainshaft ..... Transaxle Jerks
Speed Sensor Hard When Shifting

(1) - Number of blinks from "D4" indicator light on A/T gear
position indicator on instrument panel with jumper wire
installed in service check connector.
(2) - Operation of "D4" indicator light without jumper wire
installed in service check connector.
(3) - Check listed component for probable cause. Also check
wiring and connections of specified component.
(4) - If transaxle fails to shift from Park with the brake
pedal depressed, check the brakelight signal. See
BRAKELIGHT SIGNAL under TROUBLE SHOOTING.
(5) - If lock-up clutch does not engage or does not cycle on
and off, check A/C signal. See A/C SIGNAL under
TROUBLE SHOOTING.
(6) - Fault Code No. 15 does not necessarily indicate an
electrical problem, as fault code may also be caused by
an internal transaxle problem.

Gearbox rebuild

Plenty of pics and advice from dohc-vtec and Darf on here

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Prelude Gearbox ID Codes

submitted by Kawa

M2A4 - JDM 4G
M2B4 - JDM 4G LSD
M2F4 - USDM 4G
M2U4 - JDM 5G Type-S ATTS/USDM Type-SH ATTS
M2Y4 - JDM/USDM 5G Base
M2Z4 - JDM 5G SiR S-Spec/JDM 5G w/ LSD option
M2P4 - UKDM 5G 2.2VTI ('99-' 00) same ratios as the U2Q7 Accord Type R box, just minus the LSD

moved from another thread in tech section