Honda Prelude UK

MaDMaXX · Posted: Wed Oct 14, 2009 6:21 pm Post subject:

Och, yeah, that's expensive Sad

But good on your for persevering Smile

Hope you enjoy the feel now.

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is the official website, if you use the part finder for the 4g lude, it comes up with this;

Oxygen Sensor Part No. Location Note Photo
Oxygen Sensor 24169 Pre-Catalyst
Oxygen Sensor 24603 Post-Catalyst

Pre and post catalyst is just does it fit before or after the cat.

The official UK website gives the UK part number of OZA668-EE12 but it's a little less clear as they only seem to state 96 to 00, auto trans is different to the manual and there is another one for the 200 brake version ie. the JDM (i think)

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tilly · Posted: Thu Oct 15, 2009 11:24 am Post subject:

MaDMaXX wrote:

Och, yeah, that's expensive Sad

But good on your for persevering Smile

Hope you enjoy the feel now.

The official UK website gives the UK part number of OZA668-EE12 but it's a little less clear as they only seem to state 96 to 00, auto trans is different to the manual and there is another one for the 200 brake version ie. the JDM (i think)

Lambda Sensor Front 1.5i 16 Valve LSi Coupe
Date: 01/94-11/95
OZA660-EE18
Info:Type EJ2Eng ( D15B7 ) - No of wires 4/Con/Type (43) Length 350mm [5714]
£60.52

Car is now taxed for another year, £190, just one Pirelli trye left to buy. I expect I will get that for my birthday.... hate-old

adamwilkes · Posted: Thu Oct 15, 2009 12:09 pm Post subject:

tilly wrote:

MaDMaXX wrote:

His own doing?

Hub made a major error when sealing the rocker cover with sillicone sealant, 2 months ago. The next journey, engine warning light came on & my car staggered home, as the 02 sensor had failed.

We bought a new one, but it failed as soon as I used it.

We purchased another one & in the meantime he fixed the 4WS (which didn't work if my wheels weren't straight when I parked), a new solenoid & transistor for the IAB.

It appears the valve may have been stuck for the 4 years we have had the Lude!! Maybe why its had trouble going into Vtec.... Question

Anyhooo...failure again with the sensor....then it dawns on hub that the oil going round my car is still contaminated! So, before the new NTK sensor is fitted, he replaced & flushed 3 more times....

So, clean oil and new sensor...hurrah....no warning lights.... Wink

but this month has been pretty expensive.....

Mad

Just to clarify... 02 (Lambda) sensor seems to have failed due to Silicone contamination. Rocker cover gasket was sealed with household silicone on top of the standard seal, as it weeps at the back otherwise (I have done this before with no problems, but with a different make of silicone). It seems that the engine oil dissolves some of the silicone that hangs into the rockers area, which then gets sucked into the air intake as a mist/vapour via the Positive Crankcase Ventilation valve (PVC valve) along with the blowby gasses, as it is designed to do. When burnt in the cylinders, the silicone is changed into minute particles of silicon (sand). These are then blown out of the exhaust; some get stuck in the pores of the Lambda sensor, stifling it and making it unable to sniff the exhaust. Hence failed sensor.
It was a long and painful route to discover this, but with senor-safe silicone sealant (Wynns - over £10 Shocked

) in place of the household silicone and repeated oil flushing to clean it out, seems to have effected a cure. New lambda sensor fitted last of all (after three gallons of oil thrown away), many crossed fingers thumbs etc, and all is well.
To avoid confusion, the NGK/NTK Lambda sensor used has the proper Honda plug fitted, part number 0za660-ee18; stock number 5714, at £62 a bargain for possibly original equipment!

The Air Intake Bypass (AIB) solenoid had melted, overloading the transistor that switches it on & off inside the engine management box, so the air intake was not being enlarged at revs over 4600, possibly stifling the VTec effects Evil or Very Mad

This is not linked to the O2 sensor problem, but was discovered when I was scratching around to find a reason for the engine light to keep coming back on! Second-hand solenoid and new transistor soldered in fixed that nicely. To check operation - the AIB diaphram (passenger side of the intake manifold, easily seen) should move when the engine is started, and move back when the engine is shut off. It should also move back at revs over 4600 (one brief blip of the throttle in the driveway will be enough to see that).

The balljoint rubbers were also replaced before the MOT; there are eight upper & lowers and two rear steering boots - all at about £15 each from Honda Exclamation

Probably cheaper that replacing the whole joints though, and fairly easy to do. 19 year-old balljoints still in great shape, and only perishing rubber to show for the age - Honda quality joints! Front track rod ends were replaced whole in case of wear, at high prices from ebay (from the USA) - but less silly than from car spares shops locally!

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My lovely wife runs her great BB1 2.2 VTEC 1991 Lude..

MaDMaXX · Posted: Thu Oct 15, 2009 5:58 pm Post subject:

Ahh yes, i forgot to mention about that silicone sealant! bad bad thing Razz

You should use "gasket goo" and it's literally a smear on the points labelled in the manual.
I spent a while clean the crap out of my valve bay from the last person that re-fitted the cover Rolling Eyes

That diaphragm problem is something i had to sort myself, but it was a seized linkage on the diaphragm rather than the control solenoid like yours Smile

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adamwilkes · Posted: Thu Oct 15, 2009 7:02 pm Post subject: silly silicone

In my defence, I have to add that I had done a full service (fuel filter; air filter; oil & filter; tappets adjusted; bits on the intake manifold cleaned etc) at the same time as sabotaging the car with crap silicone - so figuring out the cause was confusing, as I had done so many things at the same time !

Tilly's car is now fault-free (including the 4WS), and with an incident-free MOT yesterday as well Very Happy